For South Aussies, our largest mountain range – the Flinders Ranges – is a 430-kilometre-long treasure waiting to be uncovered. Home of the Adnyamathanha people (meaning “hills or rock people”), the region is brimming with Aboriginal art, ancient rock sites, mesmerising starry nights, native flora and fauna, and spectacular scenery formed as long as 600 million years ago. From kangaroo spotting to sunsets over gorges, the Flinders Ranges is full of natural wonders.
In such a vast destination, there are enough trails, climbs, and tours to find something new every day. However, that doesn’t mean I can’t get a lot out of the Flinders Ranges with a five-day getaway. The best time to visit is between April to October, so I’ve mapped out my trip traversing Melrose to Wilpena Pound—staying at exceptional G’day Parks along the way.
Day 1: A Remarkable Start
Image Credit: Mount Remarkable National Park - Asaf Miller
My journey will kick off at Mount Remarkable, approximately a three-hour drive from Adelaide. Starting from the Melrose base (which charges an entrance fee per vehicle), my pick of the walking trails is the moderately challenging Summit Walk to the 960m-high peak.
Melrose Caravan Park
After grabbing lunch in town, it will be time to check in at my first park: Melrose Caravan Park. Located near the base of Mount Remarkable, it takes advantage of nearby scenic landscapes and trails. The park has heaps of recreational facilities including a camp kitchen, bike track, basketball and tennis courts, playground, seasonal fire drums, and BBQ spots. My creekside cabin, with its peaceful deck space to chill out beside the stream, comes with an ensuite, air con, private kitchen, and a spacious open-plan living area.
Image Credit: Alligator Gorge - Angus Mountjoy
By afternoon, I’ll drive around to Alligator Gorge. Following the morning’s summit hike, I’m not sure I can tackle the entire 10-plus-kilometre walk on the same day—luckily, there’s a shorter, alternative route that still takes you through the Narrows. I’ll need to dry out my walking shoes that night, because the walk takes you right through the water within the red gorge walls. I can’t wait!
A day of stunning walks will end with happy hour on the deck, watching the sunset turn to stars. Taking advantage of my fully equipped kitchen, I’ll be sure to cook up a big bowl of pasta before a good night’s sleep.
Day 2: Trains and Trails
Spear Creek Holiday Park
I’m already dreaming of whipping up the perfect holiday park breakfast to start my second day: fluffy pancakes, topped with fruit and maple syrup. After sipping a cuppa with the sunrise, I’ll say goodbye to Melrose Caravan Park and start the journey to Spear Creek.
Image Credit: Pichi Richi Railway
Along the way, I’ll stop at Quorn, a town at the beginning of the Ranges. The Pichi Richi Railway is another great way to observe the area without breaking a sweat; book well in advance for one of their trips. The Explorer leaves Quorn at 10.00am on selected days; this half-day adventure includes a trip to Woolshed Flat (light refreshments included), returning at 12.30pm. Winding through the Pichi Richi pass, I’ll travel past ancient geology and picturesque sights. I’ll grab lunch in town; I’ve heard the Quandong Café is famous for its Quandong Pie, so I’ve got to taste this local delicacy.
Spear Creek Holiday Park Bungalow
After exploring Quorn, it’ll be time to head forty minutes up the road to Spear Creek Holiday Park. Set amongst a 21,000-acre working sheep station on the western slopes, it’s a calming place to call home. There are powered and unpowered sites or bunkhouse-style Shearer’s Quarters, but I’ll be checking into a Bungalow. With an open-plan living area and kitchen, as well as room for up to six guests, it’s ideal for travelling—no matter how big or small your group is. Plus, there’s a private, enclosed patio with outdoor seating, a BBQ, and a fire pit.
Spear Creek Trail
The park sits right beside the Spear Creek trail, which follows the valley north for approximately five kilometres, passing rock slides, historic caves, and stromatolites (aka, the oldest fossils on earth). I’ll be heading out to see what makes Spear Creek unique—knowing that I’m coming back to my cosy home-away-from-home for dinnertime.
Day 3: Behind the Wheel
Image Credit: Parachilna Gorge Road - South Australian Tourism Commission
On my third morning, I’ll enjoy a lazy wake up, followed by breakfast and a stroll around the park. Then, it’s time to check out and hit the road for Parachilna Gorge. This will be the northernmost point of my journey—but by all accounts, it’s worth the drive!
Image Credit: Blinman Mine Tour - South Australian Tourism Commission
My first stop is Blinman, an old mining town known as ‘the highest town in South Australia’. Blinman has its fair share of hiking and 4WDing tracks, but what sets it apart is its history—you can explore 1860s historic buildings or take a tour of the Blinman Underground Mine. I’m also excited to visit Wadna to admire local Indigenous artwork and craftmanship.
Image Credit: Prairie Hotel - Morgan Sette
At the turning point of this spectacular drive to Parachilna Gorge, I’ll stop at the Prairie Hotel. Open for lunch from 12pm to 3pm, this is a Flinders Ranges institution, offering a famous restaurant, brewery, and casual eatery. Burger and chips, yes please!
Image Credit: Road to Black Gap Lookout - South Australian Tourism Commission
I’ll return south via the Moralena Scenic Drive (about 1.5 hours duration), which travels through Arkaba Station and Merna More Station country, between the Elder Range and Wilpena Pound. It’s the number one way to appreciate the region’s beautiful flora and fauna, while stopping at designated scenic points like the Black Gap Lookout.
Discovery Resorts - Wilpena Pound Safari Tent
My home for the next few nights is Discovery Resorts - Wilpena Pound, staying in a boutique glamping Safari Tent. These premium tents feature a king bed (or two single beds), with air conditioning, tea and coffee facilities, an outdoor seating area, fire pit (April to October), and an ensuite with a walk-in shower. There’s even the option to add a delicious breakfast at the resort’s restaurant.
Image Credit: Chace Range - Brooke Saward
I’ve got my eye on a sunset helicopter flight over Rawnsley Bluff and Wilpena Pound, landing on the Chace Range. Glowing in sunset colours, I’ll enjoy views over Wilpena Pound with drinks and nibbles in hand. It’s the best way to comprehend just how expansive the region is.
The tour returns around 6pm, right on time for dinner and a chill night. No doubt, before going to bed, I’ll be flicking through my photos to reminisce about the day’s amazing sights and get excited for what I’ll see tomorrow.
DAY 4: The Height of Adventure
Ikara-Flinders Ranges National Park
Next morning, it’s time to lace up the hiking shoes, because Wilpena Pound is the ultimate place for bushwalking (and mountain biking, with bikes for hire at the Visitor Information Centre). I’m heading out into the heart of the Ikara-Flinders Ranges National Park to climb up St Mary’s Peak. This is one of the longer and trickier adventures, but it’s a gem in the Flinders Ranges crown, with an outlook like no other at the top. I don’t want to leave the Ranges without ticking this off my list.
Discovery Resorts - Wilpena Pound Safari Tent
From there, it’s back to my trusty tent for some quiet time (essential for such a packed trip!) before attending the Welcome to Country. This happens every evening beside the Reception building; from March to November, it starts at 4.30pm, led by a Yura guide. The Welcome to Country is spoken in the traditional Yura Ngawarla language, interpreted into English, and then the guide explains the background of the Adnyamathanha flag and traditional Yura Muda stories.
Image Credit: The Woolshed Restaurant - Rawnsley Park Station
I’ll grab dinner at another iconic Flinders restaurant: The Woolshed, which is just 15 minutes away. They focus on modern Australian cuisine, paired with amazing local wines. I’m going all-in for indulgence—starter, main, and dessert, to try as many regional flavours as possible.
Image Credit: Ikara Safari Camp - South Australian Tourism Commission
Then, it’s time to settle into my tent, with a glass of wine and a good book by my side. I’ll relax on the deck, watching as the sunset over the gorge turns into the milky way. Did you know that the Flinders Ranges is one of the premier places in Australia to see the uninterrupted sky, thanks to a lack of light pollution? You can stare at stars with ease (and there are great stargazing experiences available in places like Mount Little Station and Arkaroola).
DAY 5: Farewelling the Ranges
Yura Mulka Sacred Canyon Tour
On my last morning, I’ll be up and about at 8am to join a guided cultural walk. This is the perfect tour to gain a better understanding of the region’s history and learn about its First Nations people. The Yura Mulka Sacred Canyon tour uncovers the stories of ancient rock engravings—stories that can only be shared by appropriate Adnyamathanha tour guides. It’s a three-hour, guided experience.
Image Credit: Rawnsley Bluff - South Australian Tourism Commission
Then, it’ll be time to start the journey home to Adelaide. There’s no doubt I’ll feel a little sad to leave the Flinders Ranges behind, even though I’m sure the four-hour drive home will still contain incredible scenery.
Think of how much I’ll have seen throughout my five-day trip, and yet I’ll have only scratched the surface of what the Flinders Ranges has on offer.
I’ll report back, but for now, I need to get booking on the G’day Parks app!
Got an extra day?
Image Credit: Nilpena Ediacara - Tourism Australia / South Australian Tourism Commission
Head north to Leigh Creek Outback Resort! On the way, I’d visit Nilpena Ediacara National Park. Offering insight into the earliest complex animal life, Nilpena Ediacara is accessible only by a guided tour that’s perfect for history, science, and nature lovers. They recommend booking at least a few weeks in advance for these high-demand tours.
Leigh Creek Outback Resort
Leigh Creek Outback Resort is located in the Northern Flinders Ranges, close to the Aroona Dam, Akurra Walking Trail, and Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary. The park has a large playground, pool, and a restaurant and bar. From deluxe motel rooms that are perfect for solo and couple travellers to family cabins which can sleep up to five guests, there is a stay to suit everyone.
Image Credit: Arkaroola - South Australian Tourism Commission
By night, sign up for an Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary Stargazing Experience. You can sit on a custom robotic chair that moves with your guide to zero in on the stars they’re talking about. It sounds like the sort of starry immersion dreams are made of.
Keen for 4WDing?
Image Credit: Brachina Gorge - South Australian Tourism Commission
If I had a high clearance vehicle, I’d have to squeeze the Bunyeroo and Brachina Gorges into my trip. Set aside a half day, pay the entry charge at Wilpena Visitor Centre, then drive slowly through valleys, riverbeds, and ancient cliffs and caves. Reach the iconic Razorback Road and the ‘Corridor of Time’, a geological trail with ancient fossils and geology. It’s a prime opportunity to spot a yellow-footed rock wallaby perched on one of the outcrops.
Alternately, be led by an Aboriginal guide who can provide a detailed history of the landscape, through the eyes of the Adnyamathanha people, on this Experience Oz 4WD Tour.
Top 3 Travel Tips
- Mobile reception is limited, so plan for travelling without the messaging systems you’re used to having at your fingertips—download WikiCamps for offline maps and save handy tips within your notes section.
- Confirm whether trails are open and safe at the park reception/visitor centre or on the SA national parks website before you set off. You’d hate to get halfway up the hill only to realise the path is closed.
- Research which roads are accessible for your car and which ones require a high-clearance vehicle. Likewise, check which biking trails are suitable for road bikes rather than mountain bikes.
See you in the Ranges!
